Day 4, Saturday - Jodhpur

Its time for you to visit yet another desert kingdom, Jodhpur, where you arrive at 08.00hrs. You can spend the morning at Mehrangarh Fort that towers over the city like an eagle’s eye and then come downhill to lunch at Umaid Bhawan Palace, the largest art-deco residence in the world and now home to the head of the royal family, museum and luxury hotel. Departure, after unwinding and relaxing at the palace, is at 15.30 hrs.

The 500 year old history of Jodhpur, the bastion of the valiant Rathore Rajputs, bristles with conflicts and sieges, with battles and savage skirmishes, so it is difficult to believe that they found the time to not only build the impossibly invincible looking Mehrangarh Fort, but also its lavish and delicately embellished palaces. Within the Fort, reached by a steep path with huge guarding at its turns and places at angles, to prevent elephants from storming them, are a large number of apartments where the maharajas retainers now serve as guides. Within, the apartments are painted and gilded and have windows and balconies to allow them an uninterrupted view of the desert around it, now peopled with homes. The vintage battle arms of the royal past are well presented – swords and daggers and spears and matchlock guns; a battle tent seized from Emperor Jehangir; howdahs and chariots and carriages; cribs and beds; the royal, octagonal throne; musical instruments, large drums, even a collection of turbans.

From the ramparts of the fort, where the cannons are still mounted, the sweeping view also takes in a huge palace located on top of another lower hill. This is Umaid Bhavan, the palace the Maharajas set out to build as a famine relief project, but also ambitiously as the World’s largest private residence. It was intended to and did rival the Presidential palace coming up then in Delhi. Build by a British Architect; while the planning has incorporated the elements of the Rajput lifestyle (large county yards, for example, or a zenana wing), there is a formal western sense of symmetry and restrained sense of ornamentation. Only in the royal suites does exuberance take over, since a Polish artist, then traveling in India, was given the permission to create huge paintings to suit the art-deco theme of the architecture and furniture in the palace. The grounds of the palace are huge and towards the back, there is a bougainvillea garden, perhaps the only of its kind in the world, and at the end, a Baradari, a pillared pavilion where the maharajas held Mehfils, entertainment courts. Within the palace the courtrooms are more formal, while the ballrooms resounded, till recently, with the sounds of revelry, now captured in the whispered conversations of tourists.